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Writer's pictureNick Wiesneski

My Best Hacks for Working Out of A Small-ish Midsize Vehicle

I run across a lot of conversations about work vehicle organization, so I thought I'd throw out a few of my innovations and lessons learned while doing handyman work out of my 2008 Toyota 4Runner. The 4Runner is a bit on the small end of the mid-size SUV range, so efficiency in organizing and hauling tools has been paramount to making it a feasible work truck.

Roof Rack

I made my own flat roof rack with 80/20 1.5" extrusions. Being the SUV's stand-in for a truck bed, I made it a bit wider than 4' wide to be able to strap down full sheet material up top. I also made a quick mount roof box bracket system. If I need to expand weather-protected and/or lockable storage I can throw the boxes up top. https://www.nickworksmn.com/products/roof-box-mount-system


SeatRack


Also made these racks that use the headrest mounts ("SeatRack", patent pending;) for hauling long material inside, weather protected, secured inside the locked vehicle. Though you still need to strap things down so they don't lance your windshield, it's easier and quicker than loading on the roof. They'll handily fit up to 9' material if you go straight down the passenger side — or can squeeze in up to a 10' piece if you max it diagonally from windshield to rear window. https://www.nickworksmn.com/products/seatrack


Modular Front Bumper Pockets

I added 1.25" receiver pockets to the corners of my steel front bumper. They usually hold corner posts I use for a bit of brush protection for the headlights, and as mounting points for limb risers. I've also used them with a front rack to extend roof rack capacity for picking up 16' or 20' metal stock or transporting long shop builds like railing or whatever. https://www.nickworksmn.com/projects/off-road-vehicle-mods


Tool and Battery Mounts

I have Ridgid tools (LSA lifetime warranty tools and batteries FTW;). I 3D printed a series of mounts to make an efficient, accessible battery and tool center in the cubby area. With an inverter and charger parked in there, too, I can usually keep batteries topped up just charging during drive time. If I'm on a heavier or longer job for days or weeks, I can plug in the charger (or multiple) on the job site to charge through the day and keep up. Or if I burn through a lot of batteries, just charge a bunch of them in the shop overnight when I get home.


Tool Box System


I use Ridgid tool boxes. They're holding up great, still going strong, most with 5+ years of regular use, and they're commonly available at really good prices. Any nesting storage system could do the trick here if they achieve the same main benefits:

  1. Bundling tool sets makes loading and unloading my vehicle much more efficient when switching from work mode to family hauler, or camping/overland loadout.

  2. As I've added more boxes, I've been able to dedicate more individual boxes to certain tool type sets. This saves time shuffling tools around the cargo area, and allows me to more easily just grab and bring in the tool sets I need on a particular job.

  3. Using the wheeled box to stack multiple tool boxes on top and move them around job sites saves a lot of lifting and trips back and forth.




I've been through a few iterations of layout, with the latest being the best so far. I removed the original rolling base box with the permanently attached wheel set and handle sticking out the back (last pic, tall stack) — it was just bulky enough that it didn't allow for another Ridgid box to sit flat behind it, and it jammed up movements in the cargo area when trying to access tools and boxes.


The current best setup for me keeps the longer format 28" wheeled box in the set (so I can still roll a stack around), and then two stacks of the regular 25" box footprint. From there, you can stack whatever configuration makes the most sense on top of any of the three positions. Spreading them deeper and making three stacks by adding the front/back layout allows for keeping stacks generally shorter. This is advantageous for retaining rear window visibility, and saving time if you don't need to strap down a tall tower stack to keep it from tipping over.


Currently, I've got about 6 main boxes in regular rotation:

  1. 28" rolling box - planer, circular saw, nailer or other bulky tools, plus fill in per job reqs

  2. 25" tall tool box - this is my catch-all general kit, filled with a lot of stuff I don't use every time, but often pull something out for semi-unexpected or unplanned fixes or tool needs

  3. 25" short box - everyday carry stays in the truck with 3/4" impact wrench, SAE & metric impact sockets, ratchet, and inflator

  4. 25" short box - "Cutties" box with oscillating cutoff tool, recip saw, and angle grinder

  5. 25" short box - "Screwies" box with impact drivers, drills, also kind of versatile box to fill in per job reqs

  6. 25" hardware box - assorted screws


Also in the back, most of these everyday carry: tool belt with basic general grab and go kit, PPE bag with a can of earplugs/some safety glasses/gloves/etc, Tie down bag with bungees and ratchet straps, Recovery strap, General tool bag for, bucket with hand broom (Swopt mounts to handle I keep in back too)/dustpan/33gal garbage bags/antibac wipes can, bag with compact camp chairs and hammocks, SeatRacks (see above), umbrella, large brim hat for sun cover, bungee PVC pipe set.


On top of all of that, one of the keys is to keep some open space around tool boxes, so they can open in place, and on top as I'm able, to allow for material pickup, loading, movements in the field through the day, etc. Hope that helps somebody out there. Go get 'em! ;)

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